Once the still-pending holiday season takes its curtain call, the cruel and indifferent months (January, February, March and April, the cruelest of all) will no doubt drive many of us indoors, where we’ll cozy up with a loved one or a new book, determined to wait out the winter months until the weather, finally, breaks.

There are schemes, of course, to dream all those rainy winter clouds away. You can fly somewhere warm or you can dust off and spin your favorite Beach Boys record to water down your blues.

Or, you can fetch, so to speak, your stash of winter snowballs that have been living in your freezer since December for your long awaited neighborhood assault scheduled for that first week of June.

By that, we mean, why not give yourself the gift of summer when the dark days are longest?

To wit: we have, ourselves, a stash of locally brewed summer beers, lovingly and patiently hand-crafted by the young men and women at Upright Brewing, located a stone’s throw across the river.

Upright’s Flora Rustica is a farmhouse Saison-style ale modeled on the refreshing farmhouse ales long produced in the Belgian countryside. Bottled in wine-sized bottles, this beer requires nature’s cooperation—it can’t be brewed until the yarrow and calendula flowers that give this beer its floral notes, have blossomed and have been harvested.

Dry, bitter and versatile—it pairs well with practically everything on our menu—the Flora Rustica won’t bring the winter to its knees, nor is it likely to bury deep those winter blues. But we’re betting that just one sip will put a metaphorical spring in your figurative step and will give you a familiar glimmer hope, a reminder that this, too, shall pass.

But you gotta get ’em while they last, because, like summer snowballs, this beer, once it’s gone, won’t be back until mid-summer.