ORIGINAL STARTERS: PEROGIE Tuesday, February 28, 2012

There are almost as many ways to make it as there are to spell it, but there is (generally) only one way to say it: the G should be hard and the O and the E, long.

And unless we’ve been blessed with Polish grandmothers, most of us have enjoyed these little dumplinged pies only when they’ve been retrieved from the plasticky paper boxes that live in our freezers.

The classic, manufactured frozen perogie is most often stuffed with mashed potatoes and some kind of cheese (almost universally, cheddar).

But that’s no way to eat a proper perogie, so like the most loving and doting of Polish grandmothers, we make ours fresh, from scratch, and we skip both the potatoes and the cheese.

After forming the dough (which, when finished’ll look a lot like a large ravioli or a small calzone), we fold it, stuff it with braised short ribs and caramelized onions, crimp it closed, serve it atop of a bed of creamed leeks (that spice you’re tasting? Cardamom) and ring around it a drizzled trail of bordelaise made with, among other things, red wine, crimini mushrooms and beats.

Try one, and see for yourself if our short rib perogie doesn’t make you reconsider the frozen food that’s been taking up far too much space in your freezer for far too long.