A few years ago, winemaker Charles Smith, creator of Walla Walla, Washington’s K Vintner, initiated what we’d all soon be calling The Modernist Project.

The idea is to bottle and bring to the market wine as soon as it is ready, meaning that it wouldn’t sleep or age in any oak barrels in any temperature-controlled cellars, as so many wines often do.

The reason? Well, nobody likes waiting. We want what we want when we want it and when is often immediately (or, if you work in an office, sometime last week).

The result is fresh batches of several different varietals are fresh, bottled, corked and labeled with sparely colored black and white graphic designs that, in a phrase, will tell you what you’re about to taste.

Smith’s 2010 Boom Boom! Syrah, easily identified by the bomb on its label, is a strong, bold, deeply purple, fruit-forward, yet not-too-sweet red, with hints of black cherry and, subtly, of tobacco.

As it goes particularly well with an awful lot of what we serve, we’ve think we’ve done a good job selecting this as a great glass to pair.

And since it pairs well with all things shroomy, rich and creamy, try a glass with our Beef Stroganoff, our Lasagna Bolognese, our Braised Pork Shank with Apple Bacon Fritters or our Frosted Short Ribs.

Can’t commit, or short on time? Then belly on up with us during Happy Hour, and enjoy a glass (or two) with a plate of our housemade Cheese-Curd Stuffed Pretzels.